Kayaking in Crystal River & Three Sisters Springs

Tucked away off the beaten path in Crystal River, Florida lies one of the world’s best gems, Three Sisters Springs.  This pristine area has been featured twice in National Geographic magazine and Crystal River is famous for being the only place in the world you can legally swim with the West Indian Manatee.  Tourists from all over the world flock to Crystal River to have an encounter with these gentle giants. 

My adventure begins on a cool December morning.  Manatee season, as set by the United State Fish and Wildlife Commission is from November 15 until March 31, but the manatees don’t often follow mans timetable.  When the outside temperatures dip causing the waters of the Gulf of Mexico to chill, the herds migrate inland to the warm water springs which flow 72 degrees year round. 

I meet my fellow tour members at Hunter Springs Kayaks located in the heart of downtown Crystal River just a few minutes after sunrise.  Our ecotour guide Dave Perry greets us while staff members set out getting us our wetsuits, snorkel equipment and our choice of a kayak or paddleboard.  I choose a kayak, it’s 65 degrees outside currently and while that spring water might feel warm, that’s not the adventure I’m seeking this morning!

Staff members from Hunter Springs Kayaks haul our equipment down to the kayak launch at Hunter Springs Park which is steps from the kayak shop.  Our group of 8 paddlers includes a few tourists from Germany, two retired couples from New York, myself and eco tour guide Dave. 

Within fifteen minutes of my original arrival at Hunter Springs Kayaks we are on the water.  Hunter Springs Park is part of the larger body of water called Kings Bay which is at the end of the Crystal River.  If we were to follow the Crystal River just a mere mile we would get to the Gulf of Mexico.  The Crystal River, Kings Bay and its array of springs are all freshwater fed by an unknown but high number of springs. 

Our first stop on our ecotour is the House Spring which is located in the same cove as Hunter Spring Park.  This smaller spring is set far off the main area that is the main swimming area.  The House Spring is a haven for manatees.  As we get closer we can see a herd of about eight manatees resting. 

House Spring is a popular stop on eco-tours and there are several other kayakers and a few pontoon boats nearby.  There are many swimmers in the water, wetsuits on and pool noodles under their arms.  Snorkels dot the top of the waterline. 

I’m perfectly happy in observing the scene from the dry comforts of my kayak.  I can see the gentle giants come up for air periodically and there’s a group of swimmers in the water who are visibly excited about what they are seeing under the water line. 

After observing this area for fifteen minutes, Guide Dave says it’s time to paddle to our next destination.  We head out of Hunter Springs cove and paddle south passing in front of Pete’s Pier which is an iconic location along the Kings Bay. 

We continue to paddle south passing between Parker Island and Banana Island.  Our destination is the King Spring but along the way Dave mentions that we are passing a shallow area outside of Parker Island that locals call “The Shallows”.  This spot is popular on weekends and the summer when many paddle crafters and boaters alike anchor to cool off.

We continue to paddle south and turn west to reach the King Spring.  This Spring is another manatee haven in the cool months and buoys are set up marking off a spot where no human entry is allowed.  There’s a handful of manatees here but the King Spring is deep and observing them is not as easy as it was at the House Spring. 

We never come to a full stop; we just paddle slowly taking in the area.  Banana Island is quite pretty and free from any manmade structures. We come around the south side of it and begin to paddle back north making a giant loop around the island.  Dave guarantees that our final destination will be the best.  “You’ll never believe how close we are to something magical.”, he teases.  I’m intrigued. 

Completing our loop around Banana Island we see several different species of waterfowl.  A cormorant ducks into the water looking for his morning snack while perched high atop a pine tree is an osprey guarding her nest.  There’s very little motorboat traffic in the Kings Bay this morning and the entire place is blissfully serene. 

We turn east heading towards a small bridge, Dave mentions if we were to go west we could take the Crystal River out to the Gulf of Mexico.  This however who be a long hard paddle and the kayak rental companies are not allowed to have their paddlecrafts leave the confines of the Bay. 

Our group paddles against the tide under a small bridge and we find ourselves completely in a residential area.  As we are paddling past lovely waterfront homes, I’m pretty skeptical of what our final destination will be like.  But I have read the National Geographic issue and I’ve been following the area on social media so I know Three Sisters Springs is likely as impressive as it has been described. 

It’s a quick paddle and we come upon the entrance of the Springs which is fairly filled with other kayakers and several local pontoon boat tour guides.  Clearly, we are in the right place.  Our group paddles a little past the entrance and off to the side where Dave explains where we are. 

“We are currently just outside Three Sisters Springs.  Up this tiny access canal are three springs.  Folklore suggest that the Springs were named after three sisters but current days we call them Little Sister, Big Sister and Pretty Sister. During manatee season paddlecraft is not allowed inside the springs due to the high numbers of manatees that are residing in there.  All three springs output a steady stream of 72 degree water so currently the manatees think it’s a warm water haven. Also, as you can see, no motorboats are ever allowed inside.” He tells us this as he references the small access canal with poles in the middle only wide enough for people or paddlecraft to enter.  He further explains that during major bouts of cold weather sometimes Three Sisters Springs is closed to all human entrance but luckily for us today is not one of those days. 

“So who’s ready for a swim?” he asks cheerfully.  I had been adamant from the start of the day that I was not getting in the water, wetsuit or not.  I sat firmly in my kayak planning to just take in the scene but then another group of swimmers emerged from the access canal.  As they found their footing in the wasit deep water just a few feet from my kayaks they took off their masks and snorkels.

“Wow!  Can you believe how close we were?”

“That was exhilarating!”

“I’m so glad I decided to swim in there!” I heard a woman, who was in my age range excitedly say. 

Well this was it, now or never.  I suppose to get the full experience I needed to get out of my comfort zone and get wet, literally.  I gave Dave the side eye and reluctantly stashed my paddle and camera.  He offered some tips on how to ease into the water, I took a deep breath and a calculated swing of my legs and slipped into the water. 

Woah, this isn’t that bad was my first true thought.  My body was acclimated to the 65 degree day already so the 72 degree water didn’t sting like it would on a hot summer day.  I put my mask and snorkel on, grabbed the provided pool noodle out of my kayak and gathered with my group. 

We start swimming up the access canal following Dave.  It’s an extremely short swim and before I know it we are swimming inside one of the most beautiful springs I’ve ever been in.  Through my mask I can see many groups of manatees huddled in different spots of the Springs.  Before I know it a mother & calf are swim past me less than eight feet from my eyes!

It’s obvious to me now why travelers from all over the world come to Crystal River, Fl just to visit Three Sisters Springs.  This place is truly a rare gem and I’m proud of myself that I took the plunge to see it for myself.